THINGS TO DO IN BALTIMORE

So I have to be in New York Tomorrow. We had been on the road for so long we decided to skip NY tonite and get up early tomorrow to finish the drive. We picked Baltimore rather than going through Phili to save a few hours. This city is NOTHING I expected. We didnt really get to tour alot of the places but I have a list for any of you that might come to this city! We had the most AMAZING DINNER at LUNA DEL SEA BISTRO. Lucas and I ordered the steamed Lobster, crab and shrimp platter. Lucas has never been a big seafood guy, but after tonight and having the famous Maryland crab, he loves it now. Here are some things to do...

1. HAMPDEN. For a few blocks along "the Avenue" (West 36th Avenue, between Falls Road and Beech Avenue), its seems like a flashback to the 60's. Follow your meatloaf sandwich from Cafe Hon (home of the beehive 'do) with some literate comic book browsing at Atomic Books. And coming in December, Hampden's famous annual billion-light Christmas display along West 34th Street. www.hampdenmerchants.com.

2. LITTLE ITALY. Washington is just a bit too Southern to have any proper ethnic neighborhoods. Not so Baltimore, second only to Ellis Island as a late 19th-century immigration port. You'll get fierce opinions on which of more than 20 restaurants is the best-of-the-moment -- Da Mimmo (217 S. High), Caesar's Den (223 S. High), Chiapparelli's (237 S. High). Sabatino's (901 Fawn) is always good for stick-to-the-ribs southern Italian in a Louis Prima atmosphere and Vaccarro's (222 Albemarle) is unbeatable for cannoli and other old-country desserts.


3. FELLS POINT. Colonial-era neighborhood on the harbor. The worthy Admiral Fell Inn is the cornerstone of the quarter, and its HAMILTON'S is said to be one of the area's best restaurants. Still, for breakfast it's worth walking across the square to Jimmy's (801 S. Broadway) for a short-order bender. Boutique, antique and specialty shopping holds sway during the day, but at night the neighborhood becomes a pub hub of live music and pool.

4. HELMAND. An Afghan restaurant on everyone's best-of lists, and it's owned by Qayum Karzai, brother of Afghanistan's head of state, Hamid Karzai. You may have to wait for a table, but the signature sauteed pumpkin alone is worth it and the eggplant will have all those Little Italy chefs gnashing their teeth in jealousy. Entrees range between $8 and $12. 806 N. Charles St., 410-752-0311.

5. MOUNT VERNON NIGHTLIFE. If your designated driver can get you as far as this centrally located, architecturally rich neighborhood, it's not a bad pick for one-stop bar-hopping. After dinner at the Brass Elephant (924 N. Charles), head up the carved stairs to the Tusk Lounge. A few doors up the street is the pretentiously unmarked Red Maple (930 N. Charles),inventive "Asian tapas." If feel like music,head back down to the Ruby Lounge (802 N. Charles)